SandyGSDPuppy5monthsold

  NOTE:  PRACTICE EACH STEP SEPARATELY.   THE VERY BEGINNING OF THE PLACE (PART 1 INTO TO PLACE): NOTE:  THE INTRO TO PLACE ONLY NEEDS TO BE DONE 1 TIME PER PLACE OBJECT AND NEW ENVIRONMENT. Equipment needed: 6' training leash Place object (heavy blanket that won't move, dog bed, ottoman, et).  This needs to be something you can walk around with an obvious border.  STEP 1:    Position your place equipment in the middle of the room. STEP 2:   Start walking your dog around the room. STEP 3:    Walk with your dog over the place area.   When all four paws are in the place, say "place". STEP 4:    Repeat step three from every angle of the place mat or bed (remember dogs can totally interpret something as "just from this direction", so help them to learn to generalize the command by doing this). STEP 5:   After several (15 or so) repeats of this, stop short of the mat, and see if the dog i...

Exercise: Sit on the Dog (do not confuse with the down exercise later on) Equipment needed:  6' leather lead with a reliable collar (that they can not slip out of)  or slip leash  A chair Objective and Goals: This exercise starts the leadership portion of dog (or puppy) training in a very non-confrontational way. You are defining the space and activity that the dog will inhabit while you are engaged in other activities. It starts the process of showing the dog how to quiet themselves down during certain times of day and employ self-control in distracting situations. You are also getting the dog used to releasing the tension on the collar and relaxing instead of fighting against the collar. This becomes so important as the training lessons continue. STEP 1: Handler places the leather leash or slip on the chair seat and under the center of their butt so that there is only enough slack on the dog's side for them to lie down. The handler holds the other end with h...

The most common mistake that I see people do with their puppy is start the off leash portion of their training too early. Puppies make owners overly confident that they will stay this way, by the natural instinct of a puppy to stay close to their leaders. However, early lessons that they can get away with their puppy speed, will unfortunately carry over as they grow into adulthood and make their natural curiosity and wander lust worse than it needs to be. It also starts to inhibit any problem behaviors related to prey drive. In puppy hood you can begin to teach the skills not to chase small furry animals, large furry animals, and cars. All of these things have the potential to be deadly to your puppy and future dog. At the point that dogs are puppies is a great time to start the checking in process that you are going to desire before allowing your dog to go loose. I do this with puppies or adult rescue dogs with almost no training by doing the following: 1. Inside, while not s...

Talking about things that can harm your dogs, here is some more information. Chocolate Raisins or Grapes Castor Beans Anti Freeze (and other products you may use to de-ice in winter that contain anti freeze) Caffeine Garlic Onion Mushroom Plants on the attached link http://www.dogpack.com/health/poisonplants.htm Moth Balls Broccoli Raw Salmon Too much Asprin & Asprin subsitutes (Tylenol) are always toxic http://www.school-for-champions.com/animalhealth/aspirin.htm Below are some helpful links regarding this: Poison Help Site Various Toxins Even More Toxins Need your dog trained? Visit the http://www.mannerlymutts.com/ services page. Or contact me at 207-361-4395 in York Maine. Ask for Robin Rubin, Dog Trainer.

I don't know if most of the dog owning public is aware of the levels that we pass through when teaching a dog a certain command. Here are the four levels that I usually think of: 1) Demonstrate to the dog what you want him to do .You can do this by positioning or luring your dog into position. Dogs need to be shown what to do, because they don’t naturally know the things we take for granted that older dogs have already been taught. Obviously they don't understand our verbal cues, and need to be shown what they will correspond to in the future. In the Demonstration phase, the command is verbalized in conjunction with the luring or placing the dog into correct position. 2) Teach your dog what you want him/her to do (consistency and repetition). Let them know this is not a one-time command performance. There are rewards for the correct completion of a task Be consistent. Don’t tell your dog to “sit” unless you are ready to help him/her into a sit if they don’t quite understa...

For the purposes of this article, I am talking about fear (not fear [with] aggression , which has both positive and negative definitions in dog training , behaviors OR aggression behaviors) . Nor the fear that a resource is going to be taken away, and not dominant behaviors (which in my definition are not necessarily undesirable). A dog's personality or temperament, IMO, can not be described as simply "fearful", "dominant", "abused", or "aggressive". Dogs have rich lives (or should have) just as we do, and are not put into one simple box definition. They may have behaviors that fit that definition (and will have other behaviors and characteristics beyond those), but dogs (themselves) can not be IMO defined this way. There are many environmental, medical, neurological, and genetic factors that can push a dog towards fearful behaviors. It's important for owners to know that things they may do can make (one would hope inadvertently) a...